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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap...'.-.. Copyright No. 
Shelf.,3\3.Z- 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




Mental Development 



AND 



Manual Training Combined 



TAKING UP 



The One Stitch Dropped 

IN SEWING 
BY DRILLS TO SOUND-SINGING 



By 
MARY E. DUNHAM 

¥ 

"Then the one stich dropping pulled the next stitch out, 
And a weak place grew in the fabric stout, 
And, the perfect pattern was marred for aye 
By the one small stitch that was dropped that day." 



1899 

Columbia ffiook Co. 

1020 Hrcb Street 
pbila&elpbia 






49429 



Copyright, 1898 
By Mary E. Dunham 



WO COPIES NtiC-lV£D. 




t^er of M 



8EC0ND OOP/, 



PRESS OF 

"Cbc %cet>s 5. 36i^Mc CO. 

817 Filbert Street 

Philadelphia 






TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I n trod uctory , 5 

Suggestions to Teachers, 7 

Materials Needed for all Lessons, 10 

Drills for Elementary Sewing, 11 

Drill I. Position, 12 

II. Arranging Table for Sewing, 12 

III. Use of Scissors, 13 

IV. Holding Material for Cutting, 14 

V. Cutting Exercise, 15 

VI. Use of Thimble, 15 

VII. Use of Needle without Thread, 16 

VIII. Taking a Stitch on the Needle without Thread, 17 

IX. Measuring and Breaking Thread, 18 

X. Preparing the End of Thread for Threading 

the Needle, 19 

XI. Threading the Needle, 20 

XII. Taking a Full Stitch with Thread in the 

Needle, 20 

XIII. Making a Knot, 21 

XIV. Exercise for Basting, 22 

XV. Exercise in Over-Handing, 22 

XVI. Exercise for Hemming, 23 



TABLE OF CONTENTS.— Cont'd. 



PAGR 



Suggestions for Making Paper Garments, 23 

I. Apron No. 1, 2 5 

II. Underskirt, 26 

III. Apron No. 2, with Straps, 27 

IV. Underwaist No. 1, with Shoulder Straps, 27 

V. The Cape, •• 28 

VI. TheHat, 28 

VII. Underwaist No. 2, 29 

Suggestions for Making Cloth Garments, 30 

Underskirt, 3 2 

Drawers, 3 2 

Underwaist, No. 1, 33 

No. 2, 34 

Apron , 34 

Dress, 35 

Cape with Collar, 36 

Hat, 37 

Suggestions for Making Shaped Garments, 37 

Measurments for Garments for 16 inch Doll, 4° 

Underwaist, 4 l 

Gored Underskirt, 4 1 

Shaped Drawers, • 43 

Sacque Night Gown 45 

Blouse Waist Dress, 4 6 

Doll's Cloak • 48 

Doll'sHat, 49 

Appendix, 5° 



INTRODUCTORY. 



THE old grand-mother sitting by the fireside sometimes 
dropped a stitch from the rapidly flying needles, and before 
her dimmed eyes detected the accident the loosened thread 
ofttimes worked its way into the stocking, marring the beauty 
and utility of the work ; time, patience and skill were required to 
repair the damage and insure a perfect whole. 

Education, to be complete, must have no dropped stitches. 
The great development that takes place in the first few years of a 
child's life must be broad and systematic. Much of what he 
learns comes to him through his own observations and experiences, 
and this is well, but parents and teachers have a work in provid- 
ing and presenting to him that which will best nourish his devel- 
oping capacities. 

A good Kindergarten will supplement the home ; its leaders 
have made a scientific study of the child and have adapted the 
exercises to his needs, thus making their highest aim to be the 
full, all-round development of his many-sided nature. 

Educators must be careful that in the next round no stitches 
are dropped ; if the foundation has been broad and firm the super- 
structure will be solid and enduring. 

As an aid in broadening the instruction of children this little 
book is sent out. It presents a progressive series of lessons in 
sewing, for primary children, but its purpose is far deeper than 
the mere teaching of the use of the needle, necessary as that is. 

Instruction in sewing is usually delayed too long. There are 
many reasons why this work should follow immediately after the 
kindergarten. The same methods may be used, thus making no 
breaks in the child's experiences. 



Paper- folding, with cutting, may be used for garment pattern- 
making. Drills may be given and elementary work done which 
might be irksome to the older child. Greater interest can be 
aroused then ; for it is the age of doll-companionship, and the 
dressing of the doll-child becomes a work of love. 

Lessons in all materials used are given and many life-lessons 
are learned unconsciously from talks introduced. The Drills and 
Exercises in the book are the result of several years' experience 
and thoughtful consideration ; they have all been tried with the 
most gratifying success. They have been received by both boys 
and girls with continued interest and delight, and beyond doubt 
have given the little ones a broader outlook into the world, and a 
deeper knowledge of it and of themselves. 

The work is planned to cover a period of two years, giving 
two forty-five minute lessons per week, for ten months in a year. 

Then work with a purpose, 

Bear ever in mind, 
Threads strengthened in childhood 

Prove great joy to mankind. 



SUGGESTIONS TO TEACHERS. 

The following Drills and Exercises are designed to enable 
mothers and teachers to interest and instruct the children just leav- 
ing kindergarten, in the art of simple garment-making. 

The opening drills may seem very elementary, but if they are 
persevered with and presented with the proper spirit they will 
interest and instruct the child and prepare him for future work. 
The drills have been arranged with great care and it is insisted 
that they be given according to instructions. Care must be taken 
to provide proper chairs and tables, for the physical comfort and 
welfare of the child is always of primary importance. Each child 
should have individual tools and the interest and advantage are 
much greater when each can have a doll, but if that is not possible 
one doll may answer for several children. 

For efficient work no teacher should have more than ten or 
twelve pupils in the class, though with intelligent assistance one 
may direct the work of many more — often there will be one or 
more in a class able to direct the movements of the others ; then 
encourage the one who is able to assist by helping another over 
the difficult places. 

Each movement of the drills may be given to accompaniment 
of simple counting, but both the interest and development may 
be greatly increased by teacher and pupils joining in use of 
the musical scale. In the Drills the musical sounds are indicated 
by the numerals — Fig. i representing do ; 2, ra ; 3, me; etc. 

Until the pupils have gained easy control of all tools, fingers, 
needles, scissors, etc., the early drills should be repeated frequent- 
ly, and many of the drills, as III., IV., V., can be joined in one 



8 

exercise. Every lesson should be opened by drills I. and IT. and 
closed with drill II. reversed. 

In the early lessons the teacher goes through the drill, then 
asks the children to do the work with her, using their own mater- 
ials as she does hers, counting or giving the musical sounds to the 
several movements. The teacher will find she can the more easily 
lead the pupils and that they will gain mastery over themselves if 
the correct giving of the musical sounds is insisted upon from the 
very beginning. Do not permit careless nor harsh tones in 
connection with the drills. In the effort to give the tones 
well the child gets control of himself, physically, and almost un- 
consciously corrects bad habits of posture ; at the same time the 
mind and emotions are called into action and a harmonious condi- 
tion of the whole child is the result. 

Throughout the work the aim is to make correct stitches and 
encourage this branch of domestic economy, not to do fine needle 
work. That will follow in time, but must not be permitted by the 
little ones. Their muscles, of such delicate adjustment, have not been 
developed, and we do them an injury when we too soon give work 
that requires such use of them. Full round-arm movements pre- 
cede all stitch-making, in order that freedom of motion may be 
acquired. The oblong of paper 8 by 4 inches has been adopted 
for all drill exercises and paper work, because it makes an under- 
waist pattern fitted to the 11 inch doll. The use of manila paper 
is preferable for all primary work, because of its adaptability for 
folding and cutting lessons and stitch-making practice. Its color 
and surface are pleasing to the eye and it is inexpensive. In the 
use of soft-colored cotton thread, a glimmer of brightness is given 
and the stitches are more plainly seen. 

Fundamentally, there are but three stitches — the Horizontal, 
Vertical and Diagonal, — and when the pupil has gained an exact 
knowledge of how each is made, and skill in making each in 



half and quarter-inch stitches, he will make the smaller stitches in 
regular sewing correctly. 

Use the full arm swing in teaching all stitches, as that leads 
to the correct movements when applied to actual sewing. Do not 
use knots for sewing, only for basting. Always break the thread 
from the spool, and always cut the thread from the work. 

Care must be taken not to tire the child with any one drill, 
but pass gradually on ; in this way connecting the whole. Discre- 
tion must be used as to length of lessons. Much can be gained 
in thirty minutes, or forty-five can be profitably occupied, but 
nothing is gained by too long lessons. It is well to announce at 
the close of the lesson, something of the work planned for the 
next, and, as soon as possible, request reproduction of work 
brought from home. The skilful teacher will weave in with the 
lessons as outlined, many talks that will increase the value and 
interest. 



IO 



MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ALL LESSONS. 

For the proper introduction of sewing, each child should have 
individual articles, as follows : 

Sewing box, of proper size, to hold necessary articles. 

Jointed doll, 1 1 inches high. 

Butler doll stand, No. 2. 

Inch square rule, for measuring 1 2 inches. 

Lead pencil. 

Scissors, four or five inches long. 

Good, well-fitting thimble (not brass). 

Spool of colored cotton, No. 40, (pretty blue). 

Small card-board pincushion, with pins, and two No. 2 
ground-down needles placed therein. 

Some very narrow cotton tape. 

One tape needle and some small safety pins. 

Two dozen pieces of manila paper, 8 by 4 inches 

Use the paper for all drills and exercises and the paper gar- 
ments given for stitch practice. 

Have the pins around the edge of the cushion and the 
needles stuck in the top of the cushion with two stitches showing 
in them. 

Remember ! G-D needles means short needles ; the sharps 
are too long. 

No. 7 G-D needles and No. 50 or 60 cotton thread will be 
needed for the advanced work. 



1 1 



DRILLS FOR ELEMENTARY SEWING. 

I. Position for sewing. 

II. Arrange materials on table for sewing. 

III. Use of scissors. 

IV. Holding material for cutting. 
V. Cutting exercise. 

VI. X'se of thimble. 

VII. Use of needle without thread. 

VIII. Taking a stitch without thread. 

IX. Measuring and breaking thread. 

X. Preparing end of thread for threading the needle. 

XI. Threading the needle. 

XII. Taking a full stitch with thread in the needle. 

XIII. Making a knot. 

XIV. Exercise in basting. 
XV. Exercise in over-handing. 

XVI. Exercise in hemming. 

The following, or any easily applied little verses or rhymes, 
may be used to increase the interest : 

p , . ( In and out, in and out, 

{ This is the way we baste about. 

-^ i j- f Over we go, over we go, 

For over-handing < T . . . ° ' . ° 

& ( Joining tw T o pieces as we sew. 

t-v ... , ( Now w 7 e sew, now we sew, 

For running stitches... - A/r ... , ' . ' 

& ( Many stitches in a row. 

P , ( Sew the hem down, sew the hem down, 

* " ' ( For each stitch we w r ill make every sound. 



12 



DRILL I.— Position. 

(Numerals indicate the tone of the musical scale.) 

1. Feet on the floor, sitting well back upon the seat. 

2. Elevate and expand chest. 

3. Elbows on a line with the waist, holding the hands with 
the palms toward the chest, fingers curved as for beckoning, thus 
saying, come good work : 

(Repeat 1, 2 and 3, and continue with 4 and 5 

4. Left hand on waist line. 

5. Right hand taking a stitch motion for basting, as follow : 
Swing the right hand on full arm horizontal circle, from right to 
left (outer circle first). Repeat swinging for continuous circle 
for basting exercise. Singing — 

" In and out, in and out, 
This is the way we baste about." 




DRILL II. — Arranging Table for Sewing. 

Have all needed materials in the box before commencing the 
lesson. The sewing box must be near the edge of the table in 
front of the child. 



The teacher must have the same materials as the pupils, and 
after she has shown what she wants done, she should continue to 
work with them. Both hands must be used at the same time, or 
alternately, for placing materials. 

i. With both hands lift the box-lid from the box and place 
it on the table just back of the box, top up (so the box will stand 
on it after the second move). 

2. With both hands place the box on the lid. 

3. With both hands take out the measure and place it on 
the table, between the body and the box. 

4. With the left hand stand the spool at the left hand of the 
measure. 

5. With the right hand place scissors at right hand of the 
measure, with the points slanting toward the box. 

6. With the left hand place cushion beside the spool. 

7. With the right hand place thimble beside the scissors. 

8. With both hands place one piece of paper between the 
measure and the box. 

Have the materials put back into the box in reversed order, 
at the close of the lesson. 

Care must be taken to handle the materials with the hand 
which will use them in actual work. 

Have the needles placed properly in the cushion before putting 
away the work. 




DRILL III.— Use of Scissors. 

Have the scissors as per Drill II. Carefully explain the parts 



14 

of the scissors. Hold the right hand over the scissors, with the 
inside of the hand toward the table. 

i. Place the thumb of the right hand in the bow of the 
scissors, toward the left. 

2. Place the third finger in the other bow. 

3. Lift the scissors, and, with the first and second fingers of 
the right hand under the scissors, turn the hand over, resting the 
little finger on the table. 

4. Open the scissors. 

5. Shut the scissors, as for cutting. 

Repeat the sounds 4 and 5, with motions, until the child has 
full use of both hand and scissors. 

Care must be taken to have the scissors so placed on the 
table that the blunt blade will come down on the table for the 
practice work. 

(Incidentally, call attention to the difference between the 
thumb and the four fingers. ) 



DRILL IV.— Holding; Material for Cutting. 

Place one piece of paper with 
short edge parallel with front 
edge of the table. 

1. Place end of left hand 
thumb on the paper near the 
front left hand edge. 

2. Extend the first finger of 
the left hand and place it on the left hand edge of the paper. 

3. Draw the paper from the table with the thumb and 
first finger still upon it, and place the third finger under the 
paper under the thumb, and the second finger under the paper 
under the first finger. 




15 



DRILL V.— Cutting Exercise. 

Hold the paper as per Drill IV. and the scissors as per Drill 
III. ; except, apply the scissors to the paper for the sounds 4 and 5. 
Make a long cut the full length of the blade with each repetition 
of the sounds 4 and 5. 

Cut one-inch strips off from the left hand edge of the paper, 
holding the scissors in the right hand, and cut out toward the 
left hand as it holds the paper. 

By holding and cutting this way the child has the small 
piece being cut off in the left hand, and both hands aid in 
straight cutting. 




DRILL VI.— Use of Thimble. 

Call attention to the joints in 
the ringers and arms. Illustrate 
by doll that the)' will not be in- 
jured by use. Teacher and pupils 
recite in concert the following 
lesson to the right hand, before 
giving lesson in use of the thim- 
ble-finger : 

Right hand, we will give you a lesson — 

One thumb and fingers four, 
Long finger must wear the thimble, 

Or with sewing you will be sore. 

i. Place first, joint of the thimble finger upon the inside of 
the first joint of the thumb. 

2. Draw thimble-finger nail along inside of the thumb. 

3. Shoot, like playing marbles or crokinole. 

Repeat first motion with sound until it is fully understood, 
then first and second, and finally the whole drill. 

Observe such gradual steps in each of the following drills : 



i6 




DRILL VII.— Use of Needle without Thread. 

Stand the needle up in the 
cushion. 

Interest will be increased by 
calling it a man, a straight tree, 
or anything the teacher may 
wish. 

Continue the lesson to the 
right hand, thus : 

First finger and thumb, give attention ! 

Of the needle you have the care 
To place it in the proper location, 

And see each time that it goes there. 

1. Thimble on long finger (the finger bent as per Drill VI.) 
resting on top of needle eye, first finger out, thumb down ; thus 
making the long and short side of an oblong. 

2. Close thumb and first finger on needle near the point, 
draw it from the cushion and hold it up. 

3. Slip the needle between the thumb and first finger until 
the eye end of the needle only remains between the thumb and 
first finger. 

Repeat until perfect freedom of motion is gained, and then 
swing full arm for basting motion, as per Drill I. 



Lesson to Left Hand. 

Hold the left hand up, palm towards the face, and claim atten- 
tion by holding the first finger of the right hand as if speaking to 
the left fingers. 

Left hand, you must remember 

That good work depends upon you, 
While the right hand will make the stitches, 

You must keep the sewing even and true. 



'7 



Hold the paper over the first and second fingers of the left 
hand, the right hand end held between second and third 
fingers. Hold first and second fingers a little apart, thus allowing 
the needle to take a stitch in the paper between the fingers with- 
out pricking them. Hold the paper firmly by pressing the thumb 
close upon the first finger, and the third finger upon the second. 

Represent the left hand as the grandmother, sitting quietly 
holding the material for sewing, while the grand-daughter runs 
all around waiting upon her. 




DRILL VIIL— Taking a Stitch on the Needle Without Thread. 

Talk about the needle, the 
material, qualities, history, etc. 
The pretty shining needle 
twice through the paper must go 
for making every stitch the little 
child would sew. Hold the paper 
as per lesson to left hand, and the 
needle and thimble as per Drill 
VII. 

i. Push the needle point down through the paper, between 
the first and second fingers of the left hand, and carry it under a 
half inch. 

2. Bring the point of the needle up through the paper over 
the left thumb nail, having the one-half inch stitch on the 
needle. 

3. Push the needle through the paper with the thimble 
until the needle eye is under the paper. 

4. Pull the needle out with the thumb and first finger. 

5. Place the end of the third finger over the eye end of the 
needle and bring the right hand over toward the right shoulder. 



i8 



Third finger must hold the thread in the needle, 
From the time it is pulled again into sight, 
Or the two may not always keep together, 
And that would discourage you quite. 

Insist upon the proper use of thimble. 




DRILL IX. — Measuring and Breaking Thread. 

Have the spool in place as per Drill II. 

i. Thumb of left hand on top end of spool, first finger out 

straight, thus with spool form- 
ing two sides of a square. 

2. Tilt the spool and 
place the first finger of the left 
hand on the under end of the 
spool and lift it from the table. 

3. Take the end of thread 
between the thumb and first 
finger of the right hand. 

Repeat 1, 2, 3, and then con- 
tinue with 4. 

4. Carry the spool (still in the 
left hand) up to the top of the left 
shoulder, right hand holding the 
end of the thread at the waist line. 

(After thus measuring the 
proper length, drop the end of 
thread still holding the spool in the left hand.) 

5. Bring the spool from the shoulder and place it upon the 
first finger of the extended right hand w 7 ith the thread hanging 
between the fingers and the body. 




19 




6. With the right thumb hold the thread against the first 
finger of the right hand. 

7. Wind the thread once around the fingers of the right 
hand drawing the thread from the spool. 

8. Turn the right hand so the thumb will be under the 
thread close to the spool and break it with a quick jerk over the 
end of the thumb. 

Always break the thread for threading the needle thus leav- 
ing irregular fibres of threads. 



DRILL X. — Preparing the End of Thread for Threading 

the Needle. 

Hold the end of thread just broken from the spool between 
the tips of the thumb and first finger of the right hand. Moisten 
the end by placing it in the mouth, then have a half inch ex- 
tending beyond the end of the thumb and first finger. 

Roll the end between the thumb and first finger of the left 
hand until it becomes stiff and pointed, roll it toward the body so 
it will not separate the fine strands or fibres of the thread. 

Continue rolling while giving all the sounds of the scale 1, 
2, 3. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 

(Some may object to placing the thread in the mouth but it 
does seem necessary to moisten it, and the above seems the best 
way.) 



20 

DRILL XL— Threading the Needle. 

Have the needle standing up in the cushion. 

Hold the end of the thread as per Drill X. after rolling. 

1. Take the needle between the thumb and first finger of 
the left hand having the needle eye a little above the thumb and 
finger. 

2. Bring the thread over to the needle. 

3. Pass the end of thread through the needle eye. 

4. Take hold of the little end of thread (thus passed 
through the needle eye) with the thumb and first finger of the 
right hand and draw nearly half of the thread through and let it 
fall ; showing the two ends of thread. 

Hold the needle up in the right hand ready to take a stitch, 
with the left hand on waist line. 



DRILL XIL— Taking a Full Stitch with Thread in 

the Needle. 

Continue lesson to right hand repeating that already given 

and add : 

Little finger must take up Hie double thread, 
And help carry it carefully o'er, 
After the fingers have done what we said, 
Then the whole hand can do much more. 

Hold the paper as per lesson to left hand and continue the 
full stitch following Drill VIII. 

1 . Push needle point down through the paper. 

2. Take up a half inch stitch. 

3. Push the needle through until the needle eye is lost to 
sight. 

4. Draw needle out until you see the thread in the needle 
above the paper. 



21 

5. Place end of third finger over the thread in the eye of 
the needle to hold the thread in the needle. 

6. Carry the little finger under the double thread near the 
eye of the needle. 

7 and 8. Draw the right hand (still holding the needle) 
over toward the right shoulder until the thread is drawn entirely 
through the paper. 

And now we ask you all to be careful, 

Try to do the very best that you can, 
If you will pay close attention 

We will show you the epsiest plan. 

(This drill is very important and must be well practiced. 
Instruction fails to bring perfection to the pupil. Practice must 
be persevered with. ) 



DRILL XIIL— Making a Knot. 

1. Hold the threaded needle, point downward, between the 
thumb and first finger of the left hand, the thread passing over 
the first finger, and hold firmly by pressing the second finger 
against the first finger, (to prevent the thread from coming out of 
needle eye). 

2. Take the end of long thread between the thumb and first 
finger of the right hand. 

3. Wind the thread around the end of the first finger, hav- 
ing the thread crossing on the end of the finger. 

4. Roll the long thread over the end of the thread. 

5. Push the thread from the end of the first finger with the 
third finger and draw to a knot, then pass the needle to the right 
hand, ready to take a stitch. 



22 



DRILL XIV.— Exercise for Basting. 




Never use double thread ; have the needle and the thread 
as per Drill XIII., and hold paper as per lesson to left hand. 
Take one stitch at a time, drawing the thread through to the knot, 
using all the sounds of the scale with each stitch ; leave a space 
between the stitches the same length as the stitches (not less than 
half an inch) for even basting. 

Fasten the end by taking a full back stitch, going back over 
the last basting stitch taken two or three times. Remember the 
part taken upon the needle is the stitch, the thread between the 
stitches being over the space. When stitches and spaces are of 
same length the basting is called even or equal. 



DRILL XV. — Exercise in Over=Handing. 






..... 




Fold the two long edges of paper together and hold them 
between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, with the 
hand over the top edge. 



23 

Instead of the horizontal arm circle, as is used in basting, the 
vertical must now be used ; the upper outward swing being the 
first count. 

Bring the needle point through the two edges of the paper, 
with the point over the left thumb-nail for the second count, and 
continue, carrying the thread over the edge of the paper, from 
stitch to stitch, using same sounds as per Drill XII. 

Each stitch should be a quarter inch deep and twice the 
depth apart, the thread slanting over the edge from one stitch to 
the next. Do not use a knot, but sew over the first stitch two 
or three times, having a short end of the thread turned over the 
edge and sew over it until it is fastened in the seam. 



DRILL XVI. — Exercise for Hemming. 






ann^'f'ss. - ■ *5 ^^ 









■ 



For this the arm circle is diagonal from right knee to left 
shoulder. Place the paper over the first finger-nail of the left 
hand, holding it there firmly with the thumb and second finger 
of the left hand. Make diagonal stitches one quarter inch on the 
needle and one half inch apart. Place the point of the needle for 
the succeeding: stitch to the left from the one taken. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING PAPER GARMENTS. 

If the preceding drills have been carefully given, the pupils 
are now able to use their hands and tools with moderate ease and 
skill, and they are now ready for the next step. Practice could 



2 4 

be given by making the different kinds of stitches in strips of 
paper or muslin ; but the interest is much greater (and every 
teacher knows how necessary that is to true progress) when the 
little ones feel they are making garments. Paper is used for the 
first lessons, because it is easily handled, and many new lessons 
can be learned with it which will afterwards be applied to the cloth. 

In making apron No. i, the underskirt and apron No. 2, the 
child is learning to turn and baste hems and apply over-handing 
for over-seaming two edges together. The cape and hat patterns 
are simply given to introduce measuring, drafting and cutting, 
but the underwaist may be used for the first lessons in cutting 
cloth garments from patterns. 

The material must be turned over twice to make a hem ; the 
first turn quite narrow to cover the raw edge, the second turn to 
give the width of the hem. All hems should be turned over on 
the wrong side of the garment and must be turned toward the 
chest, as that is the proper way to have them when doing the 
basting and hemming. Show that the basting must be put near 
the first turned edge of the hem to hold it smoothly against the 
foundation material. 

Use even basting half inch stitches for all hems. Baste for 
all sewing, the basting thread to be removed after the sewing is 
finished. Turn and baste the hems on the short edges of all gar- 
ments to have tape run in for gathering strings, — before doing the 
hems the tape is to be run through. By so doing, the hems 
where the tape is to go are left open at the ends so the tape 
needle can run through. Fasten the gathering tape in the middle 
of the hem by taking two or three stitches all the way through 
both the tape and material the garment is made of. Narrow 
tape or any kind of string may be used to gather the garments 
to fit the doll. 

The gathering tape should be longer than the hem it is in- 



25 



tended to gather, and after the garment has been gathered to fit 
the doll the tape can be used to tie the garment on with. A little 
safety pin may be used to run the string through the hem if the 
tape needle is not convenient. Great care must be taken to 
prevent tearing the paper when running the tie string through 
the hem. Always make the bottom hem of the garment wider 
than any other. Explain that over-seaming must be done the 
same way as over-handing and is used only for sewing two edges 
together. 

Always use a knot for basting, for it is so much more easily 
taken out than the back stitches. 

Illustrate all work upon the blackboard, but especially neces- 
sary is it for garments and pattern drafting. 



I. —APRON No. 1. PAPER 8 BY 4 INCHES.) 




Turn % inch hems on the short edges first, then on one long 
edge for the top of the apron. Turn y 2 inch hem on the other 
long edge for the bottom of the apron. 



26 

After turning all four hems commence the basting at one 
end of the bottom hem, and baste on the first turned edge of the 
hems all around the apron. 

Care must be taken to have the ends of the top hem well 
fastened, taking a back stitch over the one that has been taken. 
Run the narrow tape through the top hem, and fasten it in the 
middle. Draw it to fit the doll and use the ends for tie strings. 



II.— UNDERSKIRT. 




Make the same as the apron, then overseam half the length 
of the short hems together commencing at the bottom, leaving 
the top half not overseamed for the vent in the back of the 
skirt 

In this way the child has practice in turning and basting 
hems in the interest of making a new garment and learning the 
next stitch, overseaming. 



27 



ML— APRON No. 2 WITH STRAPS. 



Make the same as Apron No. 
i, then fold into quarters the 
short way to show where the 
straps are to be sewed to the top 
hem. Cut two straps the length 
of the short edges of paper ob- 
long by i '_. inches. Turn all 
the edges like the first turn of 
the hem, then fold and baste the 
two long edges of each strap to- 
gether and overseam. Overseam 
the ends of the straps to the top 
hem }- 2 inch each side of the 
quarter fold before running the 
tie string through. 



r~A 




IV._UNDERWAIST No. 1 WITH SHOULDER STRAPS. 



Make the same as Apron 
No. 2, except cutting the arm's 
eyes, and making the straps 
half the length of those on the 
apron. After folding into quar- 
ters mark dot A on fold % inch 
from top hem and dot B on top 
hem l / 2 inch from fold ; then draft and cut quarter circle from 
dot A to B for arm's eyes and sew the straps each side of the 
quarter ciicles. 




28 



V.— THE CAPE. 

Place the paper with the 
short edges parallel with the 
front edge of the table. Fold 
the back half over on the 
front half, thus making a 
square. Keep the paper 
folded and without moving it 
measure down the right hand 
edge from the fold one inch 
and mark dot A. On the 
right hand edge of the front 
edge mark dot B. On the 
fold mark dots C and D at 
like distances from the right 
hand edge of the fold. Draw quarter circle from dots A to C 
for the neck, and from dots B to D for the bottom of cape. Cut 
along the lines of both circles. Open the pattern and give 
lessons in quarter and half circle. Cut two strips ^ inch wide 
from the short edge of practice paper and fasten to front edge of 
the neck, for tie strings. 




VI.— THE HAT. 

Fold the two short edges of paper together the same as for 
cape, and cut apart on the fold, making two square pieces. Keep 
the two pieces exactly even on the table, fold the back edges 
over on the front edges, making an oblong; without moving either 
piece fold the right hand edges over to the left hand edges, mak- 
ing a small square. Without moving the paper, measure the 
right hand fold y 2 inch from the back fold and mark dot A. On 



29 

the right hand fold two inches from the back fold mark dot B. 
On the back fold measure and mark dots C and D at like distances 
from right hand and back fold corner (or center of the square of 
paper before it was folded). Mark dots E and F in like manner 
diagonally. Draw quarter circle through dots A, E, C, and B, 
F, D. Cut around the outer circle only. Open and give lesson 
on full circle. 

Take away the circle without dots and fold the one with dots 
same as before cutting ; cut this piece on line through dots A, E, 
C, and open. Place the circle without open center upon the 
table, put the other on top of it and pin the two pieces together, 
putting a pin in each crease with the points toward the center and 
baste the outer edges together. 

Explain that the inner circle fits the head of the doll and 
can be finished with a band. 



VII.— UNDERWAIST No. 2. 

Place paper with one short edge parallel with the front edge 
of the table. Fold the back edge over even with the front edge, 
making a square, then fold the square fold over about % inch, 
from the front edges of the paper, making a smaller oblong. With- 
out moving the paper measure 
the oblong fold from the right 
hand edge two inches and mark 
dot A. Mark dot B on same 
fold y 2 inch to the left. On the 
same fold Y\ inch to the left 



Mark t 




from dot B mark dot C 

dot D vertically y 2 inch in from dot B. Mark dot E on left hand 

edge y 2 inch from the oblong fold. Mark dot F on front edge of 



\o 



the paper % inch from the left hand edge. Mark dot G on 
square fold x /n inch from the left hand edge. Draw quarter 
circle from dot A to D, a slanting line from D to C, a slanting 
line from C to E, a curved line from E to F, and a deeper curve 
from E to G. Cut along all lines from F to A, then open as for 
square and cut along line from G to E for front neck and then 
pin the shoulder seams and show how it fits the doll. 

(After folding the paper into a square, the square fold 
represents the middle of the waist pattern, the oblong fold, the 
under arm fold, and the two front edges of the paper the backs 
of the pattern. From dots A to D, to C, the arm's eyes, from 
C to E shoulder seams, from E to F back neck, and from E to G 
front neck. Such explanations may be given, or left until later. 
This pattern is simply given as practice work in measuring, draft- 
ing and cutting). 

All garments cut with deep curved or circular edges should 
have the seems clipped around the edges. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING CLOTH GARMENTS. 

The skill and knowledge gained in the previous lessons can now 
be applied to actual garment making. The measurements given 
are correct for the eleven -inch doll. Use soft unbleached muslin 
for the underskirt, drawers and underwaist ; gingham of small 
plaid for the apron and dress, and plain cotton cloth for the cape 
and hat. Have the oblong pieces of paper and cloth for patterns 
and garments prepared before beginning the actual lessons. The 
instructors must use judgment regarding needles and thread. 



3i 

Show samples of good needlework, and having learned to make 
the stitches correctly, the pupils will soon of their own accord 
make them of desirable size. Care must be taken not to have 
the thread in the needle too long, or greater effort will be required 
from the elbow and shoulder every time the needle is drawn from 
the sewing. Never use a knot in sewing ; the first stitch in a 
seam must be fastened like the last one in basting, and joining 
either a new or broken thread must be done in precisely the same 
manner. From even basting we make uneven basting by taking 
shorter stitches and leaving longer spaces, and this is better as a 
guide in seam making. 

Hasting is only preparing the seams for sewing. It holds the 
pieces together and shows where to sew ; the seam must be sewed 
just inside of the basting. Use paper for practice in combination 
of stitches for seam making. For running stitches take a stitch upon 
the needle the same as for one stitch using only sounds i, 2, and 
repeat 1,2, until as many stitches as are wanted are on the needle, 
then continue as if they were but one, thus saving time and exer- 
tion by drawing the needle from the work but once for three or 
four stitches instead of for each. For the back and running stitches 
for seam :i aking take the back stitch over the last one taken, 
and while it is on the needle take two or three running stitches, 
and so continue taking the back and running stitches. Carefully 
fasten the end of either a fully used thread or at the end of the 
seam. From overhanding we make overseaming for sewing either 
selvage or turned edges, and stitches larger than for overseaming 
for overcasting raw edges to keep them from raveling ; have the 
seams basted and then overcast the edges before sewing them. 
A hem is used to strengthen the edge of a garment or to prevent 
fringed edges. For starting hemming put the point of the needle 
under the first turned edge of the hem, and take the fastening 
stitches in hem only, leaving a little end of thread turned under 




the hem . Hold it firmly between 
the thumb and first finger of the 
left hand, at the same time hold 
the hem where the stitches are to 
be taken to fasten it to- the foun- 
dation cloth around the first fin- 
ger nail, then put the needle point 
through the foundation material 
close to the first turned edge of 
the hem, and take a stitch on the needle passing the point of the 
needle out through the first turned edge of the hem coming over 
the thumb nail as per drill XVI. After this much is fully under- 
stood with explanations for combination and application of stitches 
to seam making, all manner of sewing can be done in any kind of 
material. Always have the cloth pieces enough larger than the 
paper to allow for seams outside of the patterns. As soon as prac- 
tical, seams and parts of garments should be marked in writing. 
Stick all pins vertically to seams, with the heads towards the edge. 



UNDERSKIRT. 

Muslin : one piece 12 by 6 inches. 

Make the same as paper underskirt only the hemming follows 
the basting, and the hem at the bottom may be wider. After over- 
seaming the short hems together run the tape through the top 
hem for gathering to fit and for trying on the doll 



DRAWERS. 

Muslin : two pieces 7 by 6 inches. 




Make narrow hems on both 
short edges of each of the two 
pieces, for the two legs of the 
drawers join the two pieces by 
overseaming one-third of the 
length of the hems for the front, 
leaving the back open. 

Make one-quarter inch hem 
across the two pieces thus sewed 
together for the top. Next make 
half- inch hems at the bottom of 
each leg, then join the two nar- 
row hems on each leg by overseaming one half of the distance from 
the bottom up to where the two legs are joined together. For fast- 
ening on the doll tie the two ends of drawing string in the top hem. 



UNDERWAIST No. 1. 



Muslin : two pieces 9 by 5 in- 
ches, Draft and cut pattern same 
as for paper underwaist No. 1 
only cutting the straps of! of 
one long edge, and then cut in 
two making each strap 4 by 1 y 2 
inches. 

Place the two pieces of mus- 
lin exactly together with the 
long edges parallel with the 
front edge of the table. Pin 
the pattern on perfectly smooth. 
Cut the double muslin one-quar- 
ter inch outside all around the 
pattern for seams. Cut the 




34 

straps like paper straps. Remove the pattern and replace the 
pins in the muslin only in same places. Commence at the bot- 
tom of right hand back edge and baste (using uneven basting) for 
one-quarter inch seam all around to the bottom of the other back. 
Remove the pins and sew inside the basting with back and running 
stitches. Take out the basting thread and turn the waist inside- 
out so the seamed edges will be inside, crease the seam flat by pinch- 
ing between the thumbs and first fingers. Turn the bottom edges 
over on the inside like the first turn of a hem ; baste and then over- 
seam the two edges together. Make the straps by overseaming 
the two long edges of each together, and then sew them by over- 
seaming to the seam at top of waist each side of the arm's eyes, 
having the overseam back from the arm's eye. Fasten in the 
back with little safety pins. 



UNDERWAIST No. 2. 

Muslin : two pieces 9 by 5 inches. 

Draft the pattern same as paper underwaist No. 2. Cut by this 
pattern and baste and sew the same as underwaist Xo. 1. Last 
of all overseam one back and one front shoulder edge together 
and rub overseams open. 



APRON 



Gingham : one piece 1 1 by 6 inches, two pieces 4 by 1 y 2 inches. 

Make the same as paper apron Xo. 2, with the hemming and 
overseaming finished. Run the narrow tape through the top hem 
to gather it to fit the doll and fasten by tying the ends of tape. 

(Underskirt can be made 12 by 6 inches same as paper, only of 
muslin and hemming and overseaming finished). 



35 



DRESS. 




Gingham : one piece 14 by 1 
inches ; two pieces 5 by 4 inches. 
Dress made the same as un- 
derskirt leaving out the tape 
until after the sleeves are 
sewed to the top hem. For 
the sleeves make one-quarter 
inch hems on both long edges 
of each small piece. After 
taking out the basting turn 
the short edges of the sleeves 
over on the wrong side like 
the first turn of a hem, and 
baste and overseam the two edges of each sleeve together, 
take out the basting and rub the overseams open with thumb and 
first finger nail. Fold the dress into quarters having the vent at 
the back, and crease so the quarter folds will curve for the under 
arm crease. Pin the sleeves with one hem to the top hem of the 
dress so the overseam in the sleeve will be at the underarm crease, 
and overseam the sleeves to the top hem of the dress one-quarter 
of the width of the sleeves each side from the overseam in the 
sleeve. After the basting has been taken out and the overseam 
opened flat, run the narrow tape through the top hem of the dress 
from vent to sleeve and across the tip of the sleeve, and so con- 
tinue until it comes out at the other edge of the vent. Do not 
run the tape across under the sleeves, but come out from dress 
and go into the sleeve and from sleeve to dress ; making a hole 
between the hemming stitches with tape needle. 



36 



CAPE WITH COLLAR. 



Use soft plain cotton cloth. Paper : two pieces 12 by 6 inches, 
for the cape. Paper : two pieces 6 by 3 inches, for the collar. 

Draft the pattern same as for 
paper cape only using different 
measurements, and mark dots E 
and F diagonally same distance 
from right hand edge of fold as 




dots A and B. 

Mark dots A, E, C for the neck 
in both the cape and the collar 
1 y 2 inches from the right hand 
edge of the fold, and dots B, F, D for the bottom of the cape 6 
inches from the right hand edge of the fold, but for the 
collar mark dots B, F, D only 3 inches from the right 
hand edge of the fold. Pin patterns to the cloth and cut 
the same way as for muslin underwaist. After cutting clip around 
the neck, commence the seam at one front edge of the neck and 
baste and sew all around to the other edge of the neck. After 
taking out the basting turn both the cape and collar inside out 
through the neck and crease the seams flat. Place the collar on 
the cape so the wrong side of the collar will be next to the right 
side of the cape, and pin the raw edges of the collar and one of 
the cape together. After basting and sewing are finished turn 
the seam down on the inside of the cape and turn the loose edge 
of cape over and hem it down into the seam so 110 raw edges 
will show. Fasten with tie strings sewed to each side of the neck. 
Or the cape and collar can be basted together at the neck, and the 
seam bound with ribbon using the ends for tie strings. 



37 




HAT. 

Paper : one piece 10 by 5 inches. Paper : one piece 8 by 2^ 
inches. 

Fold, draft, and cut pattern 
same as for paper hat only use 
different measurements. Make 
band 8 by 2^ inches. 
Mark dots A, E, C for the head circle 1 inch from the right end 
back fold corner, or center of large square. And dots B, F, D for 
the outer circle 2^ inches from the same corner. After cutting 
the head circle clip all around it before sewing to the band. Take 
the band on the fingers and then place the head circle so the clip- 
ping will come toward the knuckles ; hold the straight long edge 
of the band and the clipped edge of the head circle perfectly even 
and baste with even basting for a small seam. After the head 
circle has been basted to the band join the band to fit the head cir- 
cle and sew with close back stitches, then turn the seam against 
the band and turn the other long edge over like the first turn of a 
hem, then fold it double so the turned over edge will cover the 
seam already sewed, and baste and hem right ou the seam. Then 
place the circle without the head circle on the table right side 
up, and place the one with the head band on top of it wrong side 
up with the band standing up, and pin carefully so the outer circle 
edges are even (remember they were just the same when cut) 
and baste and sew ; finish the edges with overcasting. Turn out 
through the head circle bringing all right side out and crease the 
edge seam flat. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING SHAPED GARMENTS. 

The following dictated garments can be made by using the 
seams as previously taught ; or for older girls new seams may be 



33 

introduced. The underwaist may be made of single muslin 
thereby giving more practice in hemming. The backs and bottom 
should be hemmed before the shoulders have been joined, and the 
shoulder seams may be sewed with back and running stitches then 
finished either by overcasting the raw edges or by felling. Very 
narrow hems must be used on the neck and arm's eyes ; if too wide 
they will draw the edge out of shape. Put the pins near the edge 
of the pattern when pinning to the cloth for cutting, and when 
replacing in the cloth use the same pin holes ; too much pricking 
wears as well as soils the cloth. 

Care must be taken when making garments to keep all pieces 
together as nearly as possible ; in so doing much annoyance will 
be avoided (beside giving the lesson over) holding all forces to- 
gether for strength. 

Give lessons on quality, width, quantity, and cost price of ma- 
terial. Teach that the warp threads are the strong threads, the 
foundation threads and that they run with the selvage, while the 
woof threads are the filling running from selvage to selvage, and 
that a bias-fold or cutting runs diagonally across the threads. 

Overcast the edges of the seams before sewing, just after bast- 
ing ; the edges are easily raveled or frayed from handling, and 
the overcasting prevents it. For narrow hems on bias or curved 
edges the first turned edge must be basted before the second turn 
is made, and after the second turn is made baste and finish the 
same as any other hem. For introducing the felling baste two 
edges together the same as for overcast seams, except leaving the 
edge of one piece the depth of desired finished fell seam in from 
the edge of the other piece, using uneven basting and sew with 
back and running stitches. After taking out the basting thread 
open the material sewed together, and crease the seam flat against 
the foundation so the wide edge of the seam will cover the narrow 
edge. Then hold the seam over the finger nail same way as for 



39 

any hem, and turn the raw edge of the wide seam under the nar- 
row edge with the point of the needle a short distance at a time, 
and hem it, so continuing until the seam is finished. Only about 
half or three-quarters of an inch can be turned under at a time or 
it will not keep even or regular in width. The fell is very diffi- 
cult and should not be attempted with young children. The gar- 
ments can be trimmed by sewing lace to the hems at top and the 
bottom according to fancy, but must be overseamed to the hem 
before the tape is run through if gathering be desired. The neck 
and arm's eyes may be finished by binding with either bias strips 
or tape by more advanced pupils. For close back stitching take 
one stitch, and then go over it, putting the point of the needle in 
the same place the point was first, and then carry it under and as 
far to the left from where it was first as the length of the first 
stitch, and so repeat taking one stitch at a time, taking the stitch 
on the needle twice the desired length for the back stitch to show 
on the right side. (I consider this quite a useless stitch for gar- 
ment making in these days of sewing machines, but it may be used 
in fancy work or for finishing vents in skirts). 



4 o 



MEASUREMENTS FOR GARMENTS FOR 16 IN. DOLL. 



Neck, 5 inches. 








Waist, 8 " 








Under arm, 2 inches. 








Arm's eye, 4 " 








Shoulder seam, 1 inch. 








Length of waist in front, 




Z72 inches. 


" " " " back, 






< < 


" " underskirt, 




6 


< < 


11 drawers, 




5^ 


< c 


11 sleeves, 




4% 


(i 


" " sacque night 


gown, 


1 1 


n 


c< " dress skirt, 




7 


a 


Around the hand, 




3 


< < 


Material one yard wide needed for the garments. 


}{ yard of muslin will make 




2 under waists. 


t/ < t < < ( ( 

74 






2 underskirts. 


T / < ( ( < « < 

/4 






2 pair of drawers 


<3 / < < < ( ( ( 






2 nightgowns. 


1 " gingham " 






2 dresses. 


1 " plain or plaid 


goods 


will make 


2 cloaks. 


1/ ( ( < ( < 




< < 


2 hats. 



For fine work use No. 7 needles f ground-downs), and No. 50 
or 60 cotton thread to match color of material. 

Allow all cloth sufficiently larger than the pattern for lapping 
the hems and for seams. 



Measure from joint in neck above feet a speck 

From shoulder o'er to shoulder, 
Around the neck, the waist, the arm, 

And length of sleeve as told her. 



4i 



UNDERWAIST. 



Paper for pattern, 1 1 by 5 
inches. 

Measurements : Neck, 5 in- 
ches, waist, 8 inches, length of 
front, 3}^ inches, length of 
back, 2>H inches, underarm, 2 
inches, shoulder seam, 1 inch. 
To make pattern for single 
muslin waist, turn both short 
edges and one long edge over, 
making three-qnarter inch 
hems. Place paper on the ta- 
ble with the bottom hem to- 
ward the right hand, wrong 
side up. Fold, measure and draft the same as for previously 
dictated waists using the measurements given. Mark dot H on 
shoulder line 1 inch from dot E, and dot I one-eighth inch in from 
dot E, and arm's eye curve from dot H to I for front arm's eye, 
and from H to A for back arm's eye instead of from dot C. 
Make according to previous instructions. 

Use safety pins for fastening, unless with advanced pupils where 
buttonholes can be made. 




GORED UNDERSKIRT. 



Paper for pattern, 18 by 7 inches, and 10 by 2 inches. 
5 inches ; waist, 8 inches. 



Length 



42 



\ 




Place paper with one long 
edge parallel with the front 
edge of the table ; measure the 
front edge from the right hand 
edge 6 inches and mark dot A. 
On the back edge same distance 
from the right hand edge, mark 
dot B. Draw line i from A to 
B. Fold the right hand edge 
over to line i and crease for 
the middle of back width. On 
this crease mark dot C from the 
back edge 3 inches for the vent in the back. Fold the left hand 
edge over to line 1 and crease the middle of the front width. 
Measure as now folded on the front edge from the left hand fold 
3 inches and mark dot D. On the back edge 2 inches from the 
left hand fold mark dot E. Draw line 2 from D to H. Pin the two 
thicknesses of paper together between lines 1 and 2 and cut along 
lines 1 and 2. The pieces pinned together are the side gores, the 
narrow part of both the front and side gores being the top. With 
the pattern double, pin the straight edges of side gores to the 
edges of front gore having the top edges even, then the bias edges 
of side gores to straight edges of back width (the bias edges will be 
longer than the straight edges, and all edges and folds should be 
marked with writing before cutting apart. ) Trim carefully around 
the bottom, cutting off the extra on the bias edges, making them 
even with the straight edges. Take the pattern apart and pin 
singly to the muslin with the straight edges along selvage or with 
the warp threads, and cut. Commence at the top for seam mak- 
ing. Sew with back and running stitches ; have the raw edges 
overcast. Cut the vent down the middle of the back width and 
hem it, going dowm with one-quarter inch hem and up with one- 



43 

half inch ; keep both hems even all the length of the vent, and 
finish by a pleat formed at the bottom, stitching the wider one over 
the narrow one. Make one-quarter inch hem at the top, and fin- 
ish with tape for gathering and tie string. Make three-quarter 
inch hem at bottom. The skirt can be finished at the bottom 
with edging or lace overseamed to the hem. 



SHAPED DRAWERS. 

Paper for pattern, two pieces S by 7 inches. 

It is better to cut two 






pat- 
terns before attempting to cut 
the muslin. Measurements : 
waist, 8 inches, length of side, 
5 inches. 

For pattern for one leg turn 
three-quarter inch hem on one 
long edge, place the paper on 
the table with the turned hem 
toward the right hand, fold the 
back edge over to the front 
edge. Measure down the right 
hand fold 2}4 inches from the 
long fold and mark dot A. 
From dot A draw a hoizontal 
line three quarter inch long 
and mark dot B. On front 
edge 2)4 inches from right 
fold mark dot C. On left hand edge 1 inch from the front edge 
mark dot D. On long fold three-quarter inch from left hand edge 
mark dot E. On long fold 2}4 inches from dot E mark dot F (to 




44 

show where to cut vent down the side of the drawers.) Draw 
curved line nearly quarter circle from B to C, a slanting line from 
C to D and a slanting line from D to E. With paper folded cut 
along lines from A to C, to E. Open the paper, hem fold included, 
and pin to the second piece of paper and cut it like the first pat- 
tern, then pin the two legs together. After explanations take one 
leg pattern and pin onto double muslin, the long fold with the 
warp threads ; cut the double muslin according to earlier direc- 
tions. Commence the seams for sewing the two legs together at 
the top. The seams are much more easily handled when the two 
legs are joined before sewing up the legs ; these seams may be fin- 
ished either by overcasting or felling. Sew the leg seam from the 
bottom of one leg along to the bottom of the other leg, carefully 
joining the back and front seams. The vents at the side may be 
hemmed like the vent in the skirt or both hems may be narrow. 
Make one-quarter inch hem at top for tie strings, and three-quar- 
ter or one inch hem at the bottom of each leg. 



45 



SACQUE NIGHT GOWN. 

Paper 24 by 12 inches. Measurements : neck, 5 inches ; length 
of sleeve, 5 inches ; length of gown, 11 inches. 

Place the paper on the ta- 
ble same as for drafting skirt, 
fold the back edge over to the 
front edge, then fold the right 
hand edge over to the left 
hand edge, thus having four 
thicknesses of paper. With- 
out moving the paper mark 
dot A on short fold 1 inch from 
long fold. On long fold i>4 
inches from the short fold 
mark dot B. On front edge 3 
inches from short fold mark 
dot C. On front edge 2 inches 
to the left from dot C mark 
dot D. Draw a vertical line 
1% inches from dot C, and mark dot E. From dot D draw a ver- 
tical line 2 y 2 inches long and mark dot F. On the front edge one- 
half inch from the left hand edge mark dot G. Draw nearly 
quarter circle line from F to G, and a slanting line from G to 
left hand edge of long fold. With the paper folded cut along 
the lines from C to G, and from G to long fold. Open the short 
fold (still having the paper double) and mark dot H on long fold 
2% inches to the right from dot B. Mark dot I on long fold 2 
inches from dot B toward the left. Draw curved line downward 
from H to A, to B. Cut on line from B to H for the neck. Open 
the paper entirely and refold along the short fold to show the back 




4 6 

and front neck and where the seams must be on the sides. Open 
the pattern again and pin singly to the muslin with the long crease 
running with the warp threads. Cut along the crease from the 
neck to dot I for the vent in front. Remove the pattern and 
pin the sleeves and under arm seams before basting. Finish 
vent like in skirt, make narrow hems around neck and sleeves and 
three-quarter inch hem at bottom, fasten with tie strings. 



BLOUSE WAIST DRESS. 

Measurements : waist 8 in- 
ches, under arm, 2 inches, 
arm's eye, 4 inches, length of 
sleeve, 5 inches, around hand, 
3 inches, length of skirt, 8 in- 
ches. 

Paper for skirt pattern, 22 
by 9 inches. 

Make the same as gored un- 
derskirt except using different 
measurements. Mark dots A 
and B for the back width, 9 in- 
ches from the right hand edge. 
After folding the paper mark 
dot D for the bottom of the 
front width 3^? inches from 
the left hand fold, and dot E 
from the left hand fold 2 Y /z inches for the top of front width. 
Finish vent same as previously directed, and make one-quarter 
inch hem at the top and one inch hem at the bottom. Run the 
tape through the top hem and gather to be sewed to the waist. 




47 

For Waist. 

Paper 13 by 5 inches. 

Turn both short edges for three-quarter inch hem and one long 
edge for one-quarter inch hem. Place the paper on the table and 
fold the same as for underwaist. Measure on long fold 3 inches 
from hem on short fold and mark dot A. On left hand edge 1 
inch from long fold mark dot B. Draw slanting line from dot A to 
B for arm's eve. Cut along slanting line, open and pin to the 
gingham with one short edge along the selvage. Finish the hems 
on back edges and the bottom, but do not hem at the top until af- 
ter the sleeves have been sewed to the waist. Do not run tape 
through narrow hem until after the skirt and waist have been 
sewed together. 



Sleeves for Blouse Waist Dress. 

Paper for pattern 7 by 6 inches. 

Place the paper with the short edge parallel with the front 
edge of the table. Fold the back edge over to the front edge. 
On the front edge 2 inches from the left hand edge mark dot A. 
On the left hand edge 1 inch from the front edge mark dot B. 
Draw a slanting line from dot A to B, and cut along the line for 
the bias edges of sleeve to be sewed to the arm's eye of the waist. 
Open the pattern and pin on the double gingham with the short 
edges running with the selvage or warp threads. Cut and remove 
pattern. Fold the two pieces like the pattern was and sew each 
sleeve from the long straight edge to the bias, for the seam under 
the sleeve. Make one-quarter inch hem on the long straight edge 
and run tape in and draw together to fit the hand ; fasten the ends 
of tape over the wrong side. Join the waist and sleeves together 
around the bias edges having the seam in the sleeve coming under 



4 8 

the arm when finished. Make one-quarter inch hem all across the 
top of the waist and sleeves. Overseam lace about i inch wide to 
the top hem and gather to fit the neck, running one string through 
the hem and another through the lace near the edge. Run tape 
through the hem on bottom of waist and gather to fit the doll and 
then join to skirt by overseaming. 
Fasten with tie strings. 



DOLL'S CLOAK. 

Draft and cut pattern same 
as for waist and sleeves of 
Blouse Waist Dress, only use 
different measurements. For 
cloak make oblong three times 
the waist measure, by measure 
of doll from back of neck to 
top of shoes. Fold, draft, and 
cut the same as for blouse 
waist except allowing one-half 
inch more for each arm's eye 
measure. Make i inch hem 
on each short edge for the 
front (the cloak to be open in 
the front) and make wider hem 
on the bottom. Make the 
sleeve same as for dress only 
allow i inch more on each edge of the oblong and one-half inch 
for arm's eyes, or the same as arm's eyes in cloak. Sew the 
sleeves to the cloak the same way as to the waist of dress. Finish 
with wide lace at the neck. 




49 
DOLLS HAT. 

Allow one-third of the measure around the head for the diam- 
eter of the head circle, and add twice the desired width for the 
brim for the square measure. Fold, draft, cut and make same as 
dictated for hat for 1 1 inch doll. Use one-half of diameter of 
head circle for dots A, E, C, and one half of the full square for 
dots B, F, D. For band allow one inch more than head meas- 
ure by width desired for baud. 



(After finishing the Shaped Doll Garments the child should be 
able to quite fully understand the required shaping, and with sug- 
gestions as to proper proportions can apply the same to garments 
for small children.) 



5° 



APPENDIX. 

Advocates of manual training have demonstrated the 
value of sewing with other manual training processes as an 
educational means by which the brain is developed through the 
use of the hand. 

In the earliest stages of sewing the needle and thread were 
used separately. A sharp thorn, a splinter of wood, or in many 
cases a bone served to make holes in skins which were to be 
fastened together. 

A narrow piece of skin was then inserted in the holes and 
thus the skins were laced together. 

After a time an eye was made in the needle ; then with the 
use of animal and vegetable fibre for yarn and with the wearing 
of cloth came the possibility of finer needles and closer sewing. 

Many interesting subjects could be introduced through the 
appended chapters but for use in connection with the prearranged 
work we need consider only the following : 

THE SEWING BOX. 

The sewing box is preferred to the sewing bag generally used 
for class work ; because of the greater convenience of handling 
all materials needed in concert, and less opportunity for wrong 
handling, thereby mussing or injuring the same. In using the 
box all is in open sight. 



THE JOINTED DOLL. 

The jointed doll is a better representation of the child ; and 
while the doll has been considered an imitation baby from the 



earliest ages, with careful training the doll -keeping virtually be- 
comes a part of home-making, home-keeping education. 



THE BUTLER DOLL STAND. 

The Butler Doll Stand is the invention of Mary Louisa Butler, 
of Chicago, 111., who in her unbounded love for children realized 
the need of some assistance to make the doll more than a mere 
baby to them ; and by aid of the stand the doll becomes the 
model for miniature garment making. 



PAPER MAKING. 

Paper making is one of the most useful arts. In remote 
antiquity the Chinese made paper from the bark of a special 
mulberry tree and from a grass. 

In 105, A. D., an inventor born in 89, A. D., had succeeded 
in making paper of hemp, of rags, and old fishing nets. Straw 
was used a century ago, but its extensive use is of recent date. 
There are many varieties of paper now made : ( 1 ) news and 
printing paper ; (2) writing paper of various kinds ; (3) wrap- 
ping or packing, many colored ; (4) copying, tissue, blotting, 
filtering, and card or mill board paper. In 1772 there were sixty 
varieties. The first paper mill in the United States was 
established in 1690, on ground now included in the city of 
Philadelphia, Pa. In 1897 there were 1000 paper mills in the 
United States. 



52 

LEAD PENCILS. 

Lead pencils were in use in 1 565 , made of a slender stick of black 
lead encased in a thin covering of wood. Faber established a branch 
manufactory in New York, in 1S61. Since then other companies 
have been established for manufacturing many styles ; among the 
latest the paper covered self -sharpening pencils. Various color- 
ing matter is used for different colored pencils. The most 
extensive black lead mines known are near Fort Ticonderoga, 
N. Y. 



PINS. 



The earliest kinds of pins probably were thorns or the small 
bones of fish and animals. Among ancient articles were found 
some pins of bronze, and bone, a few of copper, and one of iron. 
The solid pins now in use were first made in 1S40. Up to that 
time each pin made was passed through the hands of fourteen 
different persons. Now they are made at the rate of one hundred 
and sixty per minute. Ordinary pins are made from brass wire 
and when finished by machine they are cleaned by boiling in 
beer. They are then coated with tin and afterward brightened 
by shaking in a bag of bran or saw T dust, and then papered by a 
self-acting machine. 

For mourning pins iron wire is used and blackened with 
suitable varnish which is afterward hardened. The finest pins 
are those made of hair-like wire for insect collectors. Blanket 
and safety pins with a clasp and one end resting in a loop are 
made in various styles. 



PIN CUSHIONS. 

The cardboard pin cushions are made of two circles of card- 
board of same size (the covers used for glass jars can be bought 



53 

and they answer the purpose very well) covered with cloth and 
overseamed together. Cut the covers about half an inch larger 
than the cardboard all around ; gather each piece with small 
even basting stitches near the edge, leaving the thread with- 
out drawing until after the cardboard is placed in the center. Then 
draw the thread until the cloth fits smoothly on the right side. 
Pin the two pieces together w r ith all edges of seams between the 
two pieces ; overseam all around and fasten the ends of thread. 



NEEDLES. 

The sewing needles seem to be among the oldest implements 
used by man, and have been made of various materials, such as 
bone, ivory, wood, and metal. Steel needles were made as early 
as 1270. The processes by which sewing needles are made are 
about twenty-two: (1) The wire is cut into lengths for two 
needles ; (2) they are raised to a dull red heat, placed in loose 
bundles inside of iron rings to be straightened by rolling each 
bundle backwards and forwards on a face plate w 7 ith a curved 
bar ; (3) the wires are pointed at both ends ; (4) stamped in the 
middle of each length to produce the flattened mark for the holes ; 

(5) the holes are punched each side of the flattened middle; 

(6) while the heads are still joined they are spitted by two wires 
flattened at one end to retain them ; (7) they are filed and broken 
in two so a row of single needles is left on each spit ; (8) the 
needles are raised to red heat and cooled by placing in continuous 
flowing coal-oil ; (9) in parcels of fifty thousands they are 
scoured w T ith soap to remove the oil used in tempering the eyes ; 
(10) they are then blued to soften them ; (11) in about one hour 
with the assistance of a little fine emery and oil, and constant 



54 

.swinging on the wire the eyes are smoothed so they will not cut 
the thread ; (12) the needles are then rolled in sand and emery 
powder, and putty powder ; (13) the polishing powder adhering 
to them is removed with soap and w T ater ; (14) a number of these 
bundles are then placed between two wooden slabs, the upper one 
being quite heavy, and made to roll backward and forward as a 
polishing machine for several hours. 

After receiving a high polish in this way they are not touched 
again by hand (to prevent rust) before leaving the factory. 
Lastly the needles are papered either by being spitted in cloth 
pasted on paper, or by being made up into small packets 
in which case the bits of paper are cut and folded in a machine 
like that used for envelope making. There are many sorts and 
sizes, including those used for embroidery, canvas sewing, 
upholstery, surgical and other purposes. 

For plain sewing they are put up in packages of twent}- -five 
needles, each with size represented by a number ranging from No. 
1 to No. 12, decreasing in size with increasing numbers ; thus 
No. 1 large, No. 12 fine ; and they are called sharps (long), 
betweens (shorter), and ground-downs (G. D.). Ground-downs 
are the preferred needles for quick easy sewing. The finest 
quality of needles are hand polished with fine emerj' on flax 
thread, the eyes finished with gilt. 



THIMBLES. 

Thimbles are covers for the fingers as a protection against 
the needle when sewing. They are made of brass, silver, gold, 
ivory, ebony, and aluminum. The indentations should not be 
large or the needle is liable to catch in them. Ivory and ebony 



55 

thimbles are best fitted for embroidery or lace work where silk is 
used. Silver is preferred for general use, and aluminum being 
lighter in weight and quite inexpensive is the most suitable for 
class work. 

The Dutch are said to have been the inventors of these 
extremely useful articles. They were introduced into England by 
them two hundred years ago. 



SCISSORS. 

Scissors were in use as early as 141 7. They are made of 
three pieces, two sharpened blades with a bow or ring formed at 
one end of each piece to put the thumb and fingers through when 
being used, and a screw or rivet for fastening the two blades to- 
gether and upon which they swing. One blade is made at a time ; 
after the blades are cut, hardened, and shaped, a hole is bored in 
each for the rivet. After the blades and rivets are fitted and 
made to work smoothly they are taken apart, the blades are 
ground, and then polished with oil and emery. In 1760 Robert 
Hinchcliff, of Sheffield, England, made the first pair of fine hand 
polished scissors and presented them to the lady of his choice. 

Other manufacturers have improved upon them since and 
many kinds and sizes are now made. The best scissors are made 
of steel and the cheapest are made of cast iron. 



STEEL. 



Steel possesses several valuable properties which do not belong 
fo either cast or wrought iron ; it is harder, denser, and whiter in 
color. It is used for making needles and scissors. 



56 

EMERY. 

Emery in external appearance has nothing in common with 
the brilliant stones to which it is related, it being a dense opaque, 
bluish, black substance. It is prepared for polishing purposes, 
by being first broken into lumps, then crushed into powder, and 
sifted to various degrees of fineness. By filling a bag or sack 
with fine powdered emery we have the emery cushions for clean- 
ing or scouring rust or roughness from the needles. 



CLOTH. 



Cloth is the term used for any woven fabric, be it cotton, wool, 
linen, or silk. 



TAPE. 

Tape is a narrow web of cloth. 



COTTON. 

Cotton is an important vegetable fibre. 

It was first produced in India, and was introduced into 
America in 1536. It is found most profitable to plant new seed 
every year. The preparation of the ground takes place during 
the winter months, and as soon as frost disappears the soil is laid 
off into rows, varying in width from two to four feet ; the seed is 
then sown either in rows or in holes some distance apart. Cotton 
is planted in some parts of the United States in March or April. 
In about eight or ten days after the planting of the seeds the little 
green shoots appear above ground, and they must then be weeded 
and thinned. The bloom appears in June. There are several 



57 

species of cotton plants varying in growing height from four to 
twelve feet, with equally different color of blossoms, some being 
straw color in the morning, white at noon, and pale pink in the 
evening, turning to purplish pink with black spots next day, while 
some are in part or wholly purple, and others are of bright pink 
or red color. The flowers very soon fall off leaving the fruit 
called capsules. After the flowers fall the capsules or pods which 
contain the cotton grow very fast and soon open forming bolls 
that look like snow-white w T ool, having numerous black seeds. 
The pods open first in August and the plant continues to bloom 
and open bolls until frost comes. 

As the cotton ripens it is gathered into bags or baskets sus- 
pended from the shoulders of the pickers ; it is then spread out and 
dried, then separated from the seeds, after which it is packed into 
either bags or bales, some of which weigh from forty to fifty pounds. 
Upon arrival at the mills it is put into a mixing room w T here it is 
sorted, and again cleaned ; then it is passed through the spreading 
machine, after which it is wound in a fleecy state upon large 
wooden rollers to be transferred to the carding machine. The 
first cotton mill in the United States was built in 1743. A thread 
has been spun so fine that one pound of cotton if stretched out 
would reach more than one hundred miles. 



MUSLIN. 

Muslin is a cotton fabric w r oven plain without any looping of 
the woof thread upon the w 7 arp. A piece of muslin measuring 
three yards in length by one yard in width was manufactured in 
India at a cost of not less than two hundred dollars, the weight of 
which was only about one-fifth part of an ounce. But none ap- 
proaching it in fineness is made now. Printed muslins are made 
for summer attire. 



58 
GINGHAM. 

Gingham is a cotton cloth or fabric of light or medium weight 
and is woven from colored yarns into stripes or checks. Cotton 
cloth sold under other names partake of the same nature as 
gingham. 



CALICO. 

Calico is a printed cotton cloth or fabric. The first calico 
print works in England were established near Richmond in 1617 
by a Frenchman. The first step in the process of printing calico 
is drawing the design. One hundred years ago only one color 
was printed at a time, but machines are now used to print sixteen 
colors at one operation. There are several methods of producing 
patterns. They are called styles ; as, Madder, Padding, Steam, 
Spirit, etc. One factory alone prints twenty-five thousand miles 
of calico annually. 



WOOL. 



Wool is an animal production, and from the earliest historic 
times it has been used for woven fabric. The common sheep was 
probably the first animal domesticated by man. The leather made 
from the skin of the sheep is much used in book binding and for 
making gloves. The wool was probably pulled from the skin of 
the living sheep at first. Sheep shearing (cutting the wool from 
the sheep's back) is referred to in Scripture. 

Sheep shearing takes place in May ; it is now done by ma- 
chinery, enabling one man to clip more than thirty sheep in one 
day. Some fleece in choice sheep weigh three hundred pounds ; 



59 

the best wool grows on the sides and shoulders of the animal. 
While wool is called white it is generally of a dingy appearance 
sometimes black or with black spots ; the natural black wool is 
considered very valuable. 

Wool working on a commercial scale was not established in 
the United States until about the end of the eighteenth century. 



THREAD. 

Sewing thread, be it cotton, linen, or silk, is two or more 
yarns twisted together. For the six cord cotton thread (i) the 
yarn is doubled and wound upon bobbins ; (2) the double yarn is 
twisted into a two-ply thread ; (3) the thread is rewound upon 
bobbins for the second twist ; (4) the thread is twisted a second 
time on the twisting frame, three two-ply threads being thus 
formed into a six-cord thread ; (5) the thread is rewound on large 
bobbins from which it is reeled into hanks for bleaching or dye- 
ing; (6) after this it is rewound on bobbins for spooling; (7) 
winding the thread on spools for use. 

In the early part of the nineteenth century the manufacture 
of cotton thread was introduced into Paisley, and in 1892 about 
twelve hundred hands were employed at these mills. The 
J. and P. Coates' Mills spread over forty acres of ground and em- 
ploy five thousand persons in the three different plants, one of 
which is at Pawtucket, R. I. Among the other manufacturers in 
the United States are Clark Brothers, Willimantic, and Broks. 

Linen thread from flax was first made by a woman named 
Christian Shaw, of Bergerran, England, in 1722. Although' 
much less thread is manufactured from linen, it is perhaps used 
for a greater variety of purposes, from very fine lace making to 
coarse book-binding and shoe-making. 



6o 

SPINNING. 

Ancient spinning was one of the simplest arts, requiring only 
the aid of two short pieces of sticks for twisting fibrous sub- 
stances into round strands of yarn for thread or rope making. 
For ages the only spinning apparatus was the spindle and distaft. 
But modern developments have called forth more inventive 
ingenuity in spinning than in any other industrial operation. 
Simple as the spindle is it has continued in use from prehistoric 
ages to the present time. The Muckle wheel came into use in 
Europe in the Fourteenth Century. In 1738, Lewis Paul intro- 
duced a series of inventions to supersede hand spinning. James 
Hargreaves invented his spinning Jenny in 1764. A spinning 
frame which forms the fundamental feature of the modern 
spinning machine was invented by Arkwright in 1767. The 
spinning Jenny was developed into the spinning mule by Crampton 
in 1779. Following the invention of the mule two hundred 
strands of yarn are handled by mechanical agency precisely in 
the same way as one spindle did a single strand for ages. Differ- 
ent kinds of fibre require different treatment and special machinery, 
and yarn of the same fibrous material may be prepared and spun 
in several different ways according to the uses for which it is 
intended. Spinning thus becomes a complicated and delicate 
art. 



WEAVING. 

Weaving is the art of forming a web or cloth by the inter- 
secting of two distinct sets of fibres or threads. 

The one set of threads which pass in a longitudinal direction 
from end to end of the web is called the warp, and the thread 



6i 

which crosses and intersects the warp at right angles is called the 
woof or weft. 

The art of weaving even in its simplest form demands a 
certain amount of manual dexterity combined with mechanical 
skill. It is a universal art and the textile skill of any people 
shows the measure of their culture. Next to the industries for 
the production of food, the manufacture of cloth is the most im- 
portant. 

[And now may the proper, hygienic, comfortable clothing 
(garment making) become one of the most carefully considered, 
well-directed branches of instruction in all schools.] 



62 



FINGER LESSON. 

Right hand, we will give you a lesson, 

One thumb and fingers four ; 
Long fingers must wear the thimble, . 

Or with sewing you will be sore. 

First finger and thumb give attention, 

Of the needle you have the care 
To place it in proper location, 

And see that each time it goes there. 

Then after the thimble has pushed it, 
Until the eye has gone out of sight, 
You again take hold of the needle 
And bring it over towards the right. 

Third finger must keep the thread in the needle, 
From the time the eye comes again into sight, 

Or the two will not always keep together, 
And that would discourage you quite. 

Little finger must take up the double thread 

And help carry it carefully o'er, 
Then after each finger has done what we said, 

The whole hand can do much more. 

Left hand, you must remember 

That good work depends upon you, 

While the right hand will make the stitches, 
You must keep the sewing even and true. 

Now we ask you all to be careful, 
Try to do the very best that you can, 

And if you will pay close attention 
We will show you the easiest plan. 





WJ1 






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